受企业家精神和经济衰退的刺激,当地食品生产商数量剧增
Pasta Puttana的Jessica Volpe在绿城市场(Green City Market)售卖她手工制作的意大利面,口味有ramps味和火红番椒味。今年夏天,她在西镇(West Town)开了一家自己的店,制作一些产品搭配新鲜的意大利面。
当提到手工美食制作时,芝加哥地区以前的小市场如今变成了大市场。
随着本土膳食主义趋向和手工制作运动(部分受到经济衰退的驱动)的高涨,在过去几年里,成百上千的企业性质和小型食品生产运营开始设立起来。
许多都在提供小型食品制作的传统产品如面包和糖果。但是许多也正在创造非常小的商机,将重点集中在像成块的苦味药或刨冰糖浆等特殊食品上。
无论怎么样,当地手工食品生产的繁荣都是不可避免的。Lisa Santos回想起8年前她开自己的店Southport Grocery & Café的时候,她能够“一只手数出”她所销售的当地产的食品的数量。如今,她估计这些产品已经占了自己货架空间的三分之一或更多。
Cleetus Friedman去年秋季将他的以本土膳食主义为重点的餐饮运营扩展到拉文斯伍德(Ravenswood)的一个熟食咖啡店和杂货店City Provisions,对本土化的注重显而易见。他估计他销售的200个餐饮产品中的95%都是在芝加哥地区方圆200英里范围内生产的。
他表示:“我原本计划在2013年才会开一家熟食店的,但是当地美食运动的发展方式使我认为我能在那里获得支持。“
对于刚进入当地美食制造行业的新手而言,这一步才是烹饪职业生涯的该走的下一步。2000年,Ginna Haravon从肯代尔大学西餐西点学院毕业后,曾在几家当地餐厅工作,并在当地的烹饪学校授课将近10年。几年前,她带去超级碗(Super Bowl)派对的培根、旁波威士忌和焦糖混合菜最后证明成为朋友们非常受欢迎的菜。2009年11月,她设立了SaltedCaramel。
如今,她拥有超过12种口味的“香甜可口“的产品,包括药属葵和椒盐卷饼全麦饼干。她的新系列的冷冻小吃包括巧克力布丁汽水、西瓜香菜冰和柠檬覆盆子山羊奶酪。
像其他新的加入者一样,她在当地美食商场、农贸市场和网上销售她的商品。不断增长的大量的弹出式市场(开展一天的活动,售卖当地产品,随后结束)提供了另外一种销售渠道。
Nicole Greene于2009年设立了一个新的食品企业Truffle Truffle,通过特色巧克力松露口味让顾客回味无穷,包括黑莓百里香味、番椒味、山葵味、啤酒和椒盐卷饼味、苹果派味、花生酱和果冻味。她周周转转多次才进入食品制造业,比Haravon还要曲折。辞掉在华盛顿国防承包商的高压力的工作后,Greene进入了一个糕点学校学习,计划学习制作婚礼蛋糕。
她表示:“很不幸,我做的蛋糕太糟糕了,但是我爱上做巧克力了。“在费城管理面包店的同时,她将制作的巧克力分给朋友作为节日礼物,最终促成了Truffle Truffle的诞生。
她通过网络、零售和弹出式市场售卖自己的糖果,但是,Greene今年做了一个清醒的决定,不再注重批发业务,开始注重营销定做的企业礼物和特殊会展。“我想做婚礼蛋糕的一个原因是因为我喜欢和人们一起庆祝,而且这也是参与其中的一种方式。“
特色产品和明智营销似乎是所有这些本土膳食主义企业成功的关键,许多都在注重使用当地来源原料和利用其它可持续性企业实践。外来口味Elizabeth Madden激发她在奥克帕克(Oak Park)厨房制作出稀有蜜饯,像薰衣草桃味和杏仁味,使得今年的销售量与2010年相比增长了3倍。她和她的顾客同等重视的是所有新鲜水果都要采购自当地农贸市场。
特色产品和明智营销似乎是所有这些本土膳食主义企业成功的关键,许多都在注重使用当地来源原料和利用其它可持续性企业实践。外来口味Elizabeth Madden激发她在奥克帕克(Oak Park)厨房制作出稀有蜜饯,像薰衣草桃味和杏仁味,使得今年的销售量与2010年相比增长了3倍。她和她的顾客同等重视的是所有新鲜水果都要采购自当地农贸市场。
相似的是,Jessica Volpe也是从每周2次来到林肯公园(Lincoln Park)绿城市场(Green City Market)的商贩那里采购Pasta Puttana所需的产品,她非常热心地谈论到了“支持当地食品生产商圈“的重要性。Sandra Holl的Floriole Bakery的产品也使用的是当地的原料,大部分食材都是从绿城市场商贩那里采购而来。她估计,当她将自己的产品从3种扩大到20种开始,她的业务量已经在她烘焙的5年内翻了两番。
Holl 和Volpe最近也开了他们自己的商店,达成了许多这样的企业家追求的目标。Floriole于2010年春季在林肯公园开张,Pasta Puttana今年夏季在西镇开张。
那些没有自己零售空间的企业面临的初期食品运营中的艰难挑战之一:在哪里烘焙面包、炖蜜饯、爆玉米或冷冻水果。Melissa Yen去年就像许多人一样设立了Jo Snow Syrups。她转租了另外一个小食品制造商的商业厨房,将咖啡糖浆、意大利苏打水、刨冰糖浆和其它通过网络、零售商和在农贸市场设立刨冰糖浆手推车的方式售卖的特色产品装瓶。
尽管许多当地的食品生产商正以直接或间接的方式竞争顾客,但是它们的合作多于竞争。创造了Rare Bird 的Madden从其他食品生产商那里获得了关于许可证、管制障碍和作为2007年刚起步的企业的其它方面的建议,她表示:“这是一个不可思议的支持型社区。”
当地食品制造商的目标各不相同。许多想要开设自己的零售商店,但是Jo Snow的Yen表示,她就仅仅想获得足够的收入,而不用再做第二份工作。另外一个不同就是规模。许多企业确保质量的同时还想要保持原来的小规模,而其它的企业却想着扩大规模。
Chris Kadow-Dougherty表示:“我想将自己的企业品牌打造成国家糖果品牌,但是我希望制作过程仍保持手工制作。“他于2008年开了Whimsical Candy,目前它的产品通过零售商在12个州销售。尽管许多当地的食品生产商正以直接或间接的方式竞争顾客,但是它们的合作多于竞争。创造了Rare Bird 的Madden从其他食品生产商那里获得了关于许可证、管制障碍和作为2007年刚起步的企业的其它方面的建议,她表示:“这是一个不可思议的支持型社区。”
当地食品制造商的目标各不相同。许多想要开设自己的零售商店,但是Jo Snow的Yen表示,她就仅仅想获得足够的收入,而不用再做第二份工作。另外一个不同就是规模。许多企业确保质量的同时还想要保持原来的小规模,而其它的企业却想着扩大规模。
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Artisan boomtown
Driven by an entrepreneurial spirit and the economy, localfood producers are exploding in number
Jessica Volpe of Pasta Puttana has been selling herhandmade pastas, featuring such flavors as ramps or fiery red chile, at GreenCity Market. This summer, she opened her own shop in West Town,where she also carries products to pair with her fresh pastas.
When it comes to artisanal food-making, small is now hugein the Chicagoarea.
Piggybacking on the locavore trend and the do-it-yourself movement — andmotivated in part by the recession — hundreds of entrepreneurial, small-scalefood production operations have launched in the past few years.
Many are providing fresh takes on traditional categories of small-scalefood-making, like breads and candies. But many also are carving out very narrowniches, concentrating on specialized foods like bar bitters or snow conesyrups.
Regardless of the category, the boom in local, artisanal food production isundeniable. Lisa Santos recalls that when she opened her Southport Grocery& Cafe eight years ago, she could "count on one hand" the numberof locally made food products she carried. Today she estimates they represent athird or more of her shelf space.
For Cleetus Friedman, who expanded his locavore-focused catering operation lastfall to include a deli-style cafe and grocery, City Provisions, in theRavenswood neighborhood, the local focus is even more pronounced. He estimatesthat 95 percent of the 200 food and beverage products he sells are producedwithin a 200-mile radius, most from the Chicagoarea.
"I hadn't planned to open the deli until 2013, but the way the local foodmovement was going I decided the support was there," he says.
For some new entrants into the local food-making business, the move was thenext logical step in a culinary career. After graduating from Kendall College'sCulinary Arts program in 2000, Ginna Haravon worked in several localrestaurants and taught at local cooking schools for nearly a decade. Then, abacon-bourbon-caramel corn concoction she brought to a Super Bowl party a fewyears ago proved to be a huge hit with friends. By November 2009 she'd launchedSalted Caramel.
Today she has a line of more than a dozen "sweet meets savory"products, including stout marshmallows and pretzel graham crackers. Her newline of frozen treats includes chocolate mole pudding pops,watermelon-coriander ice and lemon-raspberry goat cheese cups.
Like other new entrants, she sells her wares at local gourmet food emporiums,farmers markets and on the web. A growing number of pop-up markets — one-dayevents that set up, sell local products and disappear — are providing anotheroutlet.
Nicole Greene also launched a new food business —Truffle Truffle — in 2009 andis making her mark with distinctive flavors of chocolate truffles, includingblackberry-thyme, chile, wasabi, beer and pretzel, apple pie, and peanut butterand jelly. She took a more circuitous route to food making than Haravon. Afterquitting her high-stress job with a Washington, D.C., defense contractor, sheenrolled in pastry school, planning on a career making wedding cakes.
"Unfortunately my cakes were terrible, but I fell in love with makingchocolate," she says. While managing a bakery in Philadelphia, she made an assortment ofchocolates as holiday gifts for friends, and that led to Truffle Truffle.
She sells her candies online and through retail and pop-up markets, but Greenemade a conscious decision this year to de-emphasize her wholesale business andfocus her marketing on customized corporate gifts and special events. "Onereason I wanted to make wedding cakes was because I love celebrating withpeople, and this is another way to be part of those celebrations."
While distinctive products and savvy marketing seem key to the success of allthese locavore businesses, many are focusing on the use of locally sourcedingredients and other sustainable business practices in their efforts. Theexotic flavor pairings Elizabeth Madden whips up in the Oak Park kitchen of herRare Bird Preserves — like peach lavender and apricot almond — have tripled insales this year compared with 2010. Equally important to her customers, and toher, though, is the fact that all of her fresh fruits come from local farmersmarkets.
Similarly, Jessica Volpe gets all the produce for her Pasta Puttana productsfrom the vendors who come twice a week to Green City Market in Lincoln Park,and she speaks with zeal about the importance of "supporting thecircle" of local food producers. Sandra Holl's Floriole Bakery productsalso incorporate locally sourced ingredients, with most coming from Green Cityvendors. She estimates that her business has quadrupled in the five years shehas been baking, as she expanded from three products to 20.
Holl and Volpe also recently opened their own shops, achieving a goal many suchentrepreneurs seek. Floriole opened in Lincoln Parkin spring 2010, and Pasta Puttana opened in West Townthis summer.
Those without their own retail spaces face one of the tougher challenges fornascent food operations: where to bake the bread, stew the preserves, pop thecorn or freeze the fruit pops. Melissa Yen, who launched her Jo Snow Syrupslast year, did what many do. She subleased a part of another small food maker'scommercial kitchen space to bottle the lines of coffee syrups, Italian sodas,snow cone syrups and other specialty items she sells online, through retailersand at a snow cone cart she sets up at farmers markets.
Although many of these local food producers are in direct or indirectcompetition for consumer food dollars, they collaborate more than compete."This is an incredibly supportive community," says Rare Bird'sMadden, who received advice from other food producers about licensing,regulatory hurdles and other aspects of a food business start-up when shelaunched in 2007.
The goals of local food-makers vary widely. Many want to open their own retailshops, but Jo Snow's Yen says she just wants enough revenue to avoid working asecond job. Another variable is size. Many want to remain small to ensurecontrol over quality, while others are thinking big.
"I want to be a national candy brand, but I hope to remain artisanal inthe process," says Chris Kadow-Dougherty, who opened Whimsical Candy in2008 and now sells through retailers in 12 states.Piggybacking on the locavore trend and the do-it-yourself movement — andmotivated in part by the recession — hundreds of entrepreneurial, small-scalefood production operations have launched in the past few years.
Many are providing fresh takes on traditional categories of small-scalefood-making, like breads and candies. But many also are carving out very narrowniches, concentrating on specialized foods like bar bitters or snow conesyrups.
Regardless of the category, the boom in local, artisanal food production isundeniable. Lisa Santos recalls that when she opened her Southport Grocery& Cafe eight years ago, she could "count on one hand" the numberof locally made food products she carried. Today she estimates they represent athird or more of her shelf space.
For Cleetus Friedman, who expanded his locavore-focused catering operation lastfall to include a deli-style cafe and grocery, City Provisions, in theRavenswood neighborhood, the local focus is even more pronounced. He estimatesthat 95 percent of the 200 food and beverage products he sells are producedwithin a 200-mile radius, most from the Chicagoarea.
"I hadn't planned to open the deli until 2013, but the way the local foodmovement was going I decided the support was there," he says.
For some new entrants into the local food-making business, the move was thenext logical step in a culinary career. After graduating from Kendall College'sCulinary Arts program in 2000, Ginna Haravon worked in several localrestaurants and taught at local cooking schools for nearly a decade. Then, abacon-bourbon-caramel corn concoction she brought to a Super Bowl party a fewyears ago proved to be a huge hit with friends. By November 2009 she'd launchedSalted Caramel.
Today she has a line of more than a dozen "sweet meets savory"products, including stout marshmallows and pretzel graham crackers. Her newline of frozen treats includes chocolate mole pudding pops,watermelon-coriander ice and lemon-raspberry goat cheese cups.
Like other new entrants, she sells her wares at local gourmet food emporiums,farmers markets and on the web. A growing number of pop-up markets — one-dayevents that set up, sell local products and disappear — are providing anotheroutlet.
Nicole Greene also launched a new food business —Truffle Truffle — in 2009 andis making her mark with distinctive flavors of chocolate truffles, includingblackberry-thyme, chile, wasabi, beer and pretzel, apple pie, and peanut butterand jelly. She took a more circuitous route to food making than Haravon. Afterquitting her high-stress job with a Washington, D.C., defense contractor, sheenrolled in pastry school, planning on a career making wedding cakes.
"Unfortunately my cakes were terrible, but I fell in love with makingchocolate," she says. While managing a bakery in Philadelphia, she made an assortment ofchocolates as holiday gifts for friends, and that led to Truffle Truffle.
She sells her candies online and through retail and pop-up markets, but Greenemade a conscious decision this year to de-emphasize her wholesale business andfocus her marketing on customized corporate gifts and special events. "Onereason I wanted to make wedding cakes was because I love celebrating withpeople, and this is another way to be part of those celebrations."
While distinctive products and savvy marketing seem key to the success of allthese locavore businesses, many are focusing on the use of locally sourcedingredients and other sustainable business practices in their efforts. Theexotic flavor pairings Elizabeth Madden whips up in the Oak Park kitchen of herRare Bird Preserves — like peach lavender and apricot almond — have tripled insales this year compared with 2010. Equally important to her customers, and toher, though, is the fact that all of her fresh fruits come from local farmersmarkets.
Similarly, Jessica Volpe gets all the produce for her Pasta Puttana productsfrom the vendors who come twice a week to Green City Market in Lincoln Park,and she speaks with zeal about the importance of "supporting thecircle" of local food producers. Sandra Holl's Floriole Bakery productsalso incorporate locally sourced ingredients, with most coming from Green Cityvendors. She estimates that her business has quadrupled in the five years shehas been baking, as she expanded from three products to 20.
Holl and Volpe also recently opened their own shops, achieving a goal many suchentrepreneurs seek. Floriole opened in Lincoln Parkin spring 2010, and Pasta Puttana opened in West Townthis summer.
Those without their own retail spaces face one of the tougher challenges fornascent food operations: where to bake the bread, stew the preserves, pop thecorn or freeze the fruit pops. Melissa Yen, who launched her Jo Snow Syrupslast year, did what many do. She subleased a part of another small food maker'scommercial kitchen space to bottle the lines of coffee syrups, Italian sodas,snow cone syrups and other specialty items she sells online, through retailersand at a snow cone cart she sets up at farmers markets.
Although many of these local food producers are in direct or indirectcompetition for consumer food dollars, they collaborate more than compete."This is an incredibly supportive community," says Rare Bird'sMadden, who received advice from other food producers about licensing,regulatory hurdles and other aspects of a food business start-up when shelaunched in 2007.
The goals of local food-makers vary widely. Many want to open their own retailshops, but Jo Snow's Yen says she just wants enough revenue to avoid working asecond job. Another variable is size. Many want to remain small to ensurecontrol over quality, while others are thinking big.

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