[校园新闻] 厨师对精酿啤酒有偏见？

厨师对精酿啤酒有偏见？

2013年11月4日

        当谈到精酿啤酒时，传统总是比口味占上风？
       首先，美国是一个热爱啤酒的国家。在美国，当葡萄酒和烈酒的销售混在一起时，他们只对比啤酒的销售总额。很多的销售额可以归功于小而独立的酿酒商制作的精 酿啤酒的增长。这些口味丰富和不同类型的精酿啤酒也是厨房和餐桌上的绝妙和万能元素。知道这一点后，为什么没有更多的烹饪机构和厨师烹饪、搭配和教授与葡 萄酒和烈酒同等水平的精酿啤酒呢？


       我理解变化是缓慢的，尤其是当历史和习惯在逐渐演变时，但是我认为既然精酿啤酒对美式味觉有着重大影响，那么现在是时候将烹饪难题抽丝剥茧。现在已经有了进步，但是正如啤酒爱好者一直以来想要指出的问题，我们仍然离同等对待酿造饮料的情况相距甚远。


       如今，我能够非常兴奋和诚实地表示手工精酿啤酒已经帮助啤酒重获餐桌上的地位。美食界已经有一些团队意识到了这一点，然而更多的人却没有意识到这一点，而我却不确定为什么。美食家、调酒师和厨师都相互讨论吗？


       以下是一些我们确定的信息：


       •        进入烹饪界的学生正在寻求更深入的啤酒教育


       •        在CraftBeer.com网站上，啤酒学校（Beer Schools）是一个高访问度的页面。


       •        国家餐厅协会（National Restaurant Association）“2013年最火热的酒精饮料”调查结果显示，啤酒闯入20强趋势前6。有趣的是，啤酒搭配排名11，而葡萄酒搭配却没有名次。


       精酿啤酒是一个热门话题！所以来听听我的咆哮吧，这是我对美食界的呼吁：是时候将精酿啤酒与葡萄酒和烈酒放在烹饪界教育和重点的同等位置了。


       我并不是唯一一个有这种感觉的人。查式调查（Zagat Survey）新闻记者、编辑以及Stone Brewing Co.公司的沟通专家Brandon Hernandez，在文章《精酿啤酒：美国最未受到充分研究的烹饪元素？》（Craft Beer: America's Most Underexamined Culinary Component?）中讨论了这一热门话题。下面是他谈到的几件我最喜欢的事情。


     “有这么多高学历人才在研究地球上的每一个元素，为什么美国只有一小部分的厨师在全面探索这一范围广泛和口味丰富的精酿啤酒呢？……为什么不深入研 究一下精酿啤酒呢，它是一种比葡萄酒或烈酒的酒精度更低、风格更为多样和口味更加丰富的饮料，比上述饮料更具口感。”


       听听Brandon的话！由于精酿啤酒的销售在过去10年里一直都以平均每年9%的速度增长，所以这是一个非常棒的问题。


       葡萄酒vs.精酿啤酒
       对于我那些爱喝酒的朋友，我想说当他们停止喝葡萄酒时就开始喝精酿啤酒。葡萄酒搭配有酸性、果味、矿物成分、单宁酸和酒精。当与食物搭配时，葡萄酒酸度能够中和油腻感和咸度，这样食物的味道就能更多地呈现出来。


       精酿啤酒也有各种酸度和苦味，用于中和食物的油腻感和剩余的甜味。但是，它也有额外的特性，能够搭配更多菜肴，包括刺激舌头并准备好品尝下一口的碳化作用，跳跃的味道、麦芽的味道、高级酵母的味道、矿物成分、单宁酸和酒精！口渴了吗？


       香槟酒vs.精酿啤酒
       数据：2012年美国市场上生产的精酿啤酒的数量比运到美国的香槟数量要多100多倍。基于我所看到的，甚至是在如今当地的美食运动中，精酿啤酒也并没有在烹饪界受到与香槟同等的重视度。


       对我而言，香槟就像葡萄酒界的精酿啤酒。它不仅是酒水领域的高端产品，而且，就像啤酒一样，它还有碳酸化作用，能够作为味觉清新剂。


       我认为香槟的流行在于这种酒水的魅力、表现形式和声望。香槟被视为款待客人的佳品，经常留到特殊场合饮用。我在这里并不是要破坏起泡酒爱好者的美梦，而是许多精酿啤酒也是使用软木塞和精致酒瓶的！


       的确，我是一个应该熟知白葡萄酒气泡酒名称的历史和传统的狂热啤酒爱好者。我希望有一天这种潮流能够改变，任何和啤酒的过去有关的烹饪耻辱都能像焦糖酱里的黄油一样溶化掉。让现在的厨师意识到并分享精酿啤酒能够为厨房带来的奇妙可能性难道很疯狂吗？


       烈酒vs.精酿啤酒
       由于大多数鸡尾酒和蒸馏酒都含有高酒精度，我的经验是通过酒精度比较这几种酒非常困难。更高酒精度仅仅意味着其味道比大多数食物口味变化更快。此外，高温食物会和更高酒精度饮料产生激烈冲突，就像火上浇油一样。


       CraftBeer.com网站Style Finder中描述的啤酒类型中，平均酒精含量体积百分比（Alcohol by volume，ABV ）是5.9%。与平均葡萄酒酒精含量体积百分比13.6%相比，蒸馏酒的平均数是80至100标准酒精度（40%至50%ABV）。当你用一款高酒精度酒 搭配一道又热又辣的食物时，酒精会活跃你舌头上的毛孔，使你对热更加敏感和更加容易接受。由于精酿啤酒拥有相对较低的ABV，所以这里最受欢迎的外卖是精 酿啤酒配辣的食物，而且其剩余糖分对热量有冷却的作用。糖分（sweet）可以缓和热度（heat），还押着韵呢！


       重视精酿啤酒的烹饪机构
       既然我们已经将精酿啤酒的超凡搭配技巧与其它两种主要的发酵饮料进行了对比，我们来看看烹饪界的一些进步吧。美国几大顶级烹饪院校在自身的啤酒教育领域迈 出了极大的步子。表扬一下！然而，我们的研究显示，很明显绝大多数顶级烹饪院校仍然相对其它饮料更加重视葡萄酒。肯代尔大学是在烹饪界为我们带来希望的其 中一个学校：


       Kendall College | Chicago
       肯代尔大学 | 芝加哥


       今年早些时候，西贝尔技术学院（Siebel Institute of Technology），美国最古老的酿酒学院，将校区搬往了芝加哥肯代尔大学。这是一个极大的进步，不仅促进了肯代尔大学的啤酒教育，而且将世界顶级酿 酒学院之一推向了一大批拥有美食意识的专业人士。


       新闻稿：
     “未来，这两所广受认可的教育学院将会合作提供以酿造和烹饪文化新型综合体为重点的新课程和新项目，并培养将会拓宽未来几代人的西餐西点烹饪艺术眼界的新一代毕业生。”


       我作为一个啤酒爱好者，发自内心地感谢大家！美食界及其教育家将继续不断重视精酿啤酒。我的希望就是美食界能够演变成一个口味重于传统的地方。



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Chefs Biased Toward Wine

11/04/2013

Does tradition trump taste when it comes to craft beer?
America is a beer-loving nation first and foremost. In the U.S., when the sales of wine and spirits are combined, they just match total beer sales. A lot of that can be attributed to the growth of craft beer, made by small and independent producers. These full-flavored, diverse craft beers are also an amazing and versatile element in the kitchen and at the dinner table. So knowing that, why aren't more culinary institutions and chefs cooking with, pairing to and teaching about craft beer on par with wine and spirits?


I understand that change is slow, especially when history and habit are involved, but I think it's time to peel back the layers of this culinary conundrum, now that craft beer has a strong hold on the American palate. Progress has been made (see below), but as beer lovers have likely been wanting to point out for thousands of years, we are far from a place where there is equal culinary treatment of all fermented beverages.


Today, I can excitedly -- and truthfully -- state that craft brewed beer has helped beer reclaim its place at the dinner table. Yet while there are groups within the foodie world that recognize this, far too many do not, and I'm not sure why. Surely foodies, bartenders and chefs are talking to each other?


Here are a few things we know for sure:
•        Students entering the culinary world are seeking more in-depth beer education.
•        Beer Schools is a top-visited page on CraftBeer.com.
•        In the National Restaurant Association's What's Hot in 2013-Alcohol survey results, beer was involved in six of the top 20 trends. Interesting to note that beer pairings came in at 11, while wine pairings didn't even make the list.


Craft beer is a hot topic, people! So hear me roar, this is my rally cry to the foodie universe: It's time to put craft beer on equal footing with wine and spirits in terms of education and emphasis in the culinary world.


I'm not the only one who feels this way. Brandon Hernandez, journalist, editor for Zagat Survey and a communications specialist for Stone Brewing Co., mused about this very topic in "Craft Beer: America's Most Underexamined Culinary Component?" Here are a few of my favorite things he had to say:


"With all this nth degree embracement of every ingredient under the sun, why has such a small percentage of this country's chefs thoroughly explored the wide-ranging and flavorful world of craft beer? ...why not dig deeper with craft beer, a beverage that's lower in alcohol than wine or spirits, broader in its number of styles and achievable taste elements, and more about providing flavor than either of the aforementioned beverages?"


Hear, hear, Brandon! Most excellent questions, as sales of craft beer have grown at an average pace of nine percent a year for the past decade.


Wine vs. Craft Beer
For my cross-drinking wine friends, I like to say that craft beer picks up where wine leaves off. Wine's pairing attributes are acidity, fruit flavor, mineral components, tannins and alcohol. When paired with food, wine's acidity calms fat and salt so food flavors shine brighter.
Craft beer also has varying acidity levels and hop bitterness to calm food's richness and residual sugar. But, it has additional attributes that take pairing potential further, including carbonation that scrubs the tongue and gets it ready for the next bite, hop flavors, malt flavors, advanced yeast flavors, mineral components, tannins and alcohol to boot! Thirsty yet?


Champagne vs. Craft Beer
Fact: The amount of craft beer produced for the American marketplace in 2012 was more than 100 times greater than the amount of champagne shipped to the U.S. Based on what I see, even amidst today's local food movement, craft beer does not get as much play as Champagne does in the culinary world.


To me, Champagne is like the craft beer of the wine world. Not only is it on the high end of its beverage category, but, just like beer, it has the pairing plus of carbonation that acts as a palate cleanser.


I think a lot of Champagne's popularity lies in the pizzazz, presentation and prestige of the beverage. It is viewed as a treat, and often saved for special occasions. I'm not here to bust any bubbly-lover's dreams, but many craft beers have corks and cages too!


Yes, I am a zealous beer lover who should recognize the history and tradition tied to white wine's frothy beverage of appellation, but a girl can dream, right? I hope one day the tides will turn, and any culinary stigma tied to beer's past will melt away like butter in a caramel sauce. Is it so crazy to want today's chefs to recognize and share the amazing possibilities that craft beer brings to the kitchen?


Spirits vs. Craft Beer
Due to the high ethanol (alcohol) levels that dominate most cocktails and distilled spirits, my experience is that it's very difficult to pair these beverages based on the intensity factor. The higher ethanol levels simply barrel over most food flavors. Additionally, food with heat clashes with higher alcohol beverages, like oil on fire.


Among the beer styles described in CraftBeer.com's Style Finder, the average ABV is 5.9 percent. Compare that to the average wine ABV, at 13.6 percent, and the average distilled spirit at 80-100 proof (40-50 percent ABV). When you pair a higher alcohol beverage with a hot, spicy food, the alcohol literally opens up the pores on your tongue, making you even more sensitive and receptive to the heat. The big pairing takeaway here is that craft beer is a natural fit with spicy food due to its lower ABV, plus it has a calming effect on heat thanks to the beverage's residual sugars. Sweet calms heat -- it even rhymes!


Culinary Institutions With an Emphasis on Craft Beer
Now that we've compared the pairing prowess of craft beer to the other two main fermented beverage categories, let's look at some of the progress we're seeing in the culinary world. Several of the top American culinary institutions are making strides in their beer education. Kudos! However, from our research, it is clear that the majority of leading culinary institutions still emphasize wine over all other beverages. Here are a few examples that give us hope in the craft beer world:


Kendall College | Chicago
Earlier this year, the Siebel Institute of Technology, America's oldest brewing school, committed to moving its campus to the facilities of Kendall College in Chicago. This is big progress, and will not only up Kendall College's beer education game, but will also expose one of the world's top brewing schools to a broader array of food-minded professionals.


From the press release:
"In the coming years, these two respected educational entities will collaborate to offer new courses and programs that focus on the emerging synthesis of the brewing and cooking cultures, creating a new generation of graduates that will expand the horizons of the culinary arts for generations to come."


Thank you from the bottom of this beer-lover's heart! Here's to the continued embrace of craft beer from the foodie world and its educators. My hope is that the food world evolves to a place where taste truly does trump tradition.


【原文引自】：http://www.gheac.com/thread-4424-1-1.html
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