肯代尔大学校友面包店Salty Tart推出特色西点
2012年11月8日
欢迎来到每周西点（Pastry of the Week），本周Charlotte Druckman向我们介绍了一些新西点，并用让人影响深刻的装饰让我们重新认识了一些旧西点。我们也见到了创作出这些美味西点的天才烘焙师和西点厨师。
来看看西点厨师如何将自认为不起眼的西点转变成令人惊叹的美味吧！
谁制作出来的？
Michelle Gayer表示：“我想我就是喜欢烘焙而已，我运气很好。”她太谦虚了。进入肯代尔大学西餐西点学院（Kendall College School of Culinary Arts）学习后，Gayer深受厨房大理石工作台面的吸引，后来成为一名西点厨师，并在Charlie Trotter's餐厅工作了10年，为自己尊称为“糕点和面包女王”一流厨师Nancy Silverton工作。她这个学习者在该领域工作的很不错。她总是梦想着拥有自己的面包店，一旦机会来临，她就会迅速抓住它。4年前，Gayer在明尼 阿波利斯（Minneapolis）开了 Salty Tart面包店，是为了所有相信“当生活中有柠檬时，就做成柠檬塔。或者更棒的是有一位西点大厨做给你吃。” （面包店的正式座右铭）的人士而开的面包店。我们非常高兴能由她来制作她想为我们制作的任何西点，因为她每天都兢兢业业、不断创新，并努力让面包店更具本 土特点，她还竭尽全力致力于一个依靠不断变化的菜单而进行的季节性项目。面包店里的椰肉松仁饼极受欢迎，但是不要忘了尝试一些你认为（错误地）不好吃的西 点，像brioche bun。
这款西点是什么样的呢？
Brioche bun的确不像字面意思一样，它或许会让你想起午餐小面包。但是忘掉这一点吧。这样的西点上会覆盖上糖粉吗？里面会填满奶油吗？所以不要这样认为。 Gayer将其描述为“超级性感”的西点，里面或许还有别的东西。它的制作有点复杂，但是表面上却看不出来，这一点会让你大吃一惊。你会尝到厚厚的奶油， 当你咬一口后，奶油就会缓缓流出来，浓浓的香草奶油（超级顺滑，也不浓稠）从面包里溢出。然后，外皮上裹一层糖屑，你可以通过这种方式制作一个果冻圈。尽 管外层覆盖糖粉，但是这款西点的甜味主要来自奶油和黄油的香草味牛奶。所以，这款西点用到了法式西点的两种基础原料——制作巧克力泡芙的奶油和 crÿme。掌握这种技巧对你以后进行和西点有关的尝试极有助益。
如果你想在法国找到这种圆圈的乐趣，那么你会很失望。这种西点不是Gayer在美国中西部度过童年时期所品尝过的。她表示，她的母亲“并没有在爱荷华州 （Iowa）制作过brioche西点。”而她自己也没有在她的学习培训期间或其它任何时候遇到过这样的西点。她推测：“或许有相同原料制作的传统西点。 而我们距离它过于遥远所以没见过它。我们关心的是美味西点，而非传统西点。”
据Brioche bun的制作者所言，Brioche bun“就这样产生了”（再次谦虚道）。自然而然，这里需要解释一下。当她首次开设Salty Tart面包店时，她解释道：“我们用各种各样的芳香和薄荷味原料制作奶油塔，我们认为在里面塞一些东西会非常酷，然后就在外层刷上一层黄油，再滚上一层 精致糖粉，美味西点就大功告成了！”
这款西点如何制作呢？
Gayer从来没有为这款西点写过食谱。她认为技能才是关键因素。她表示，意识到这一点，“你可以做任何事情。”以下是她的一些建议。
1.“不要着急。”在进行装饰之前，面团应该在冷藏器中放置一天。随后，将其缩减至2盎司（约56克）的小块。将每一块铺开弄成大约5英寸（12.7厘米）的正方形，中部厚，边缘薄。
2. 在每一个正方形的中部放一勺（大约1.5汤匙）奶油。
3. 沾点水将正方形的边缘弄湿，随后对角折叠，和其相对的边缘一起缓缓捏紧。剩余的边角重复以上步骤，这样你就能做很多个。
4. “折、捏、卷”，Gayer使用了行话。她提醒道，这是一种技能，需要“多多”实践，至少学会把皮全都折叠上，让奶油渗不出来。
5. 将这些密封好的小塔封口朝下放进一个纸杯蛋糕盘中。再次冷藏两小时，随后在室温环境下“缓慢地”发酵。当其膨大为以前的2倍后，在其外皮上涂上蛋液，进行烘焙。在350度到375度的高温下烘焙大约20分钟。烘焙完成后，它的外表层应该呈现金黄色。
6. 至于原料：新鲜为佳。尤其当你仅用如此少的原料制作时，你需要用最好的原料。“当原材料达到最佳状态时，你就能做出最好的美食。”在明尼阿波利斯，她使用 的是Pride of Mainstreet的全脂奶、Hope Creamery的黄油和 Larry Shultz提供的“快乐的鸡产的蛋”。
7. 香草豆需要特别注意：要多用，知道吗？但是不要浪费。Gayer将“剐干净去籽的豆荚扔进含有覆盖外皮用的糖的容器中”。
8. 在混合填充物的选择上，Gayer尤其喜欢奶油，原因很实际。她承认：“不要说我们没有用柠檬酱、巧克力和糖块。”但是“这款西点制作很费力，所以我不打 算再加其它的东西让它变得和怪物一样。”简单是她的密钥：“让原料和口味复杂化，须臾之间制作的东西就从美味可口变为让人难以接受。”
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This Ain't No Dinner Roll: The Salty Tart's Cream-Filled Brioche
11:00 AM / NOVEMBER 8, 2012
Welcome to Pastry of the Week in which Charlotte Druckman introduces us to new treats and reacquaints with old ones that have undergone impressive (and tasty) makeovers. We'll also meet the talented bakers and pastry chefs responsible for creating these edible wonders.
The Salty Tart's Cream-Filled Brioche
There's an important lesson to be learned in Minneapolis, where the item in the pastry case you would have pegged as a Plain Jane turns out to be a stunner.
WHO
"I guess I just love to bake, and I got lucky," says Michelle Gayer. She's too modest. After attending Kendall College School of Culinary Arts, where she was drawn to the marble-countertop side of the kitchen, this pastry chef spent a decade at Charlie Trotter's and also worked for the peerless Nancy Silverton, whom Gayer refers to as the "Queen of Rustic Pastry and Breads." The mentee isn't doing too badly in that realm herself. She'd always dreamed of having her own place, and once the opportunity presented itself, she jumped. Four years ago, in Minneapolis, she opened Salty Tart, a bakery "for everyone who believes that when life gives you lemons, you make lemon-filled tart. Or better yet, you have a master pastry chef make it for you." (That's the official motto.) We're happy to let her make anything she wants for us, especially because she does it all from scratch, everyday, and tries to keep it local, which for her means committing to a seasonal program that relies on a constantly changing menu. The coconut macaroon is a big hit here, but don't neglect to try something you might (incorrectly) presume dull--like the brioche bun.
WHAT
A brioche bun sure doesn't sound like much--probably makes you think of a dinner roll. Erase that from your mind. This is no sauce-sopping agent. Would such a thing be dusted with a snowy powdered sugar? Would it be filled with pastry cream? Don't think so. Gayer refers to it as "super-sexy," and there might be something in that. It surprises you with its quiet complexity. You get the dense brioche and, as it gently bursts when you bite down, the thick vanilla pastry cream (ultra-smooth and not so dense that it overwhelms the bread). And then, there's that crunch of the sugar she sprinkles over the top, the way you might do a homemade jelly doughnut. Despite that crunchy dusting, this petite round draws its sweetness mostly from the vanilla-perfumed milk of the cream and the butter used throughout. So that's it: you've got two foundations of French pastry--brioche and the crÿme that goes into profiteroles and éclairs. Master them and they'll serve you well in all your patisserie-related exploits.
If, however, you expect to find this orb of pleasure in France, you'll be disappointed. It's not something Gayer tasted during her Midwestern childhood. Her mom, she says, "didn't roll around Iowa making brioche pastries." Nor did she encounter it during her training, or at any other time. "There probably is a traditional thing with the same components to know about it," she surmises. "We're just too ghetto to know about it. We care about delicious, not convention."
According to its maker, the brioche bun "just kinda happened." (Again with the modesty.) There was, naturally, some logic applied. When she first launched Salty Tart, she explains, "we made brioche tarts with all sorts of sweet and savory stuff on top, and we thought it would be cool to jam something into it instead, to make an over-the-top, super-indulgent treat--brushed with butter and rolled in fine sugar to finish, of course."
HOW
Gayer has never written a recipe for this. She believes technique is the crucial factor. Knowing that, she says, "you can do anything." Here are her tips on technique (we've included links to helpful recipes should you need them).
1. "Don't rush it." The brioche dough should rest for a day in the cooler before you assemble the buns. Next, scale it down to 2-ounce blocks. Roll each of these out to an approximate 5-inch square with a thicker middle and thinner edges.
2. Place a scoop (approx. 1.5 Tbsp.) of the pastry cream in the middle of each square.
3. Wet the edges of brioche with just a touch of water, then fold two diagonally opposite corners up to meet each other and pinch them, along with their corresponding edges, slightly. Repeat that move with the remaining corners and edges, so you end up with a bundle.
4. "Pinch and roll-fold," Gayer uses the pro's phrase here. It's a skill, and, she warns, takes practice--"a couple attempts," at least--to get the brioche completely folded around the pastry cream so that the cream doesn't ooze out.
5. Place the sealed packages, seam side down, into a cupcake pan. Chill them again for a couple of hours before you proof them--"sloooowly"--in a room-temperature-to-warm environment. When the brioche has about doubled in size, apply a quick egg wash and bake. This takes about 20 minutes at 350 to 375 degrees. When ready, the tops should be a great gold-brown.
6. As for ingredients: fresh is best. Especially when dealing with something that relies on so few ingredients, you want the best you can find. "You can tell that you have an exemplary product when the ingredients are happy." In Minneapolis, she uses whole milk from Pride of Mainstreet, butter from Hope Creamery, and "eggs from happy chickens" raised by Larry Shultz.
7. The vanilla beans require a special note: Don't skimp, you hear? Don't waste them, either. Gayer throws "the scraped and seeded bean pods into a container with the sugar we use on the outside for extra oomph."
8. In terms of mixing up the filling options, Gayer's pretty loyal to her pastry cream, for practical reasons. "Not to say we haven't played around with lemon curd, chocolate, and yes, one time a candy bar," she admits, but "this pastry is pretty labor-intensive as it is, so I'm not trying to create a monster by adding other steps." Simplicity is her watchword: "Overcomplicate ingredients and flavors, and it goes from delicious to disaster in a flash."
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