[校友风采] 采访肯代尔大学校友Tom Hope——The Catch餐厅烹饪总监

采访肯代尔大学校友Tom Hope——The Catch餐厅烹饪总监（上）
 2013年7月23日

       Tom Hope是一个非常有规划的人。他的烹饪经历使他呆过很多我们大多数人都想度假而非工作的地方。他的世界观形成了他在厨房的工作模式，重视原料的采购并应 用合适的烹饪技巧。这些仅仅只是他在阿纳海姆（Anaheim）The Catch餐厅担任烹饪总监的其中两个职责。


       能解释一下成为一名烹饪总监意味着什么吗？你如何进行质量控制？
       作为烹饪总监，我要负责所有与厨房运营相关的事务。在一天当中我要身兼数职，但是正是如此才使我的工作变得如此令人兴奋。


       质量控制开始于供应商，我要购买质量最好的食材，随后当供货商运送食材到达时，正确收货。质量控制的另一个阶段就是餐前准备，这涉及到准备阶段。这需要大 家一丝不苟地严格按照食谱进行，并恰当分工。每次换班时我们都会进行一次小检查以确保所有原料都达到完美状态。最后，我们在服务期间会有几次相互制衡以确 保所有离开厨房的美食都会以设定的标准呈现给顾客。


       此外，我还与Joe Manzella还有我们的天才厨师们一起进行研发工作的各个方面，创作新菜单和特色菜品。


       最喜爱的厨师？
       Gordon Ramsey（英国的一名厨师、餐厅老板和电视名人。迄今为止，他及他的餐厅总共获得了14颗米其林之星。）。我喜欢他的个性、他对细节的注重、严格的标准、卓越的技巧以及对厨房员工的全面掌控能力。


       你喝什么样的饮料，你在哪里找到它的？
       我家里的莫斯科佬鸡尾酒。我不经常出去吃饭。


       你如何看待The Catch餐厅及其姐妹餐厅TAPS两者之间的区别？
       主要的区别就是TAPS餐厅是一个酿酒厂，酿造我们自己的啤酒，而The Catch餐厅则拥有20个现成精酿啤酒管。两家餐厅都卖鱼和牛排。The Catch餐厅会做一些现场烹饪和精致牛排，而TAPS餐厅则拥有一个牡蛎吧和熟食店。


       家庭烹饪的最佳烹饪建议？
       以技能为重点。如果用合适的烹饪技能制作的话，大部分食物都会很好吃。


       最被低估的原料？
       葡萄籽油。我在以前的工作中经常用到它。它的发烟点高，味道呈中性。如果你想用一些没有味道的油，或者你想要用来煎炒，它会非常实用。但是它稍微有点贵，这也是人们为什么不使用它的原因。


       你对烹饪新手有什么推荐？
       意式炆海鲜汤，如果他是一个非常喜欢吃海鲜和鱼的人的话。这道菜两全其美。用温火将新鲜的鱼、扇贝、虾、鱿鱼、蛤蜊和贻贝在辛辣的番茄汤中煮沸即可。


       你最早关于美食的记忆？
       与我母亲和外婆一起烹饪意式周日晚餐。我们制作香肠、意大利饺、意大利面、番茄酱和各种传统意大利菜肴。


       你能告诉我们意大利面酱由什么组成吗？
       好的意大利面酱都是由最新鲜的食材制成：意大利圣女果、意式红酒、新鲜香草，再加上稳固的烹饪技巧。


       从烹饪层面来讲，橙县（Orange County）拥有最好的：
       快餐车。每年在科罗纳（Corona）都有一次快餐车活动，那里通常有40到50辆快餐车。我喜欢这种随意性和从快餐车上立即获得美食的方便性。我曾经去 过一个毕业派对，那里就有韩国/墨西哥煎玉米卷快餐车（不是Kogi餐车）。我也在电视上看过《餐车大战》（Food Truck Wars）。我还是纽约街道手推车的热爱者。但是我不喜欢建筑工地上的普通餐车。


       在国家餐厅秀（National Restaurant Show）上，我就坐在快餐车的论坛上。当时我们正在考虑为TAPS餐厅或Catch弄一辆这样的快餐车。我们认为在那里提供餐饮服务或打出我们的品牌会 收到非常棒的效果。Ludo Lefebvre在那里与其他厨师讨论他的快餐车。他们谈到了快餐车经营是多么的困难。在听了他们的讨论以后，我想着，去他的吧！这根本就不值得投资。我 们根本没有足够的人手。


       和我们谈谈同Roy Yamaguchi（日裔美国名厨）一起工作的感觉吧。
       与Roy一起在夏威夷工作是我职业生涯中非常棒的基石。我学到了世界烹饪法，学会了如何将海产品变为餐厅海鲜美味，将农产品变成餐桌美食，并了解到了文化多样性。丰富的原料和文化近在手边，将其融合在一起，就能创作非凡的美食。


       一种你难以离开的美食？
       披萨。它种类繁多变化万千。


       近期你的最佳美食发现：
       Tony's Little Italy餐厅（厚底披萨，芝加哥式披萨）。与我在南加州发现的芝加哥式披萨最相近。我可能去过那里大概80次吧。最终，最终他们认识了我。每次我去的时 候都会和他们聊天。这家餐厅非常与众不同。披萨在那里吃比你带回家吃要好吃多了。


       你知道将披萨带回家吃的秘诀吗？告诉他们“不要切开。”要保留成完整的披萨。将其放在350度的烤箱中烤15分钟。之后再拿出来切开。这样尝起来就像刚从烤箱里出来时的味道一样。我喜欢Tony的特色。香肠、蘑菇、胡椒和绿洋葱。


       你有想要学习制作的菜肴吗？
       我想要学习如何制作熟食。


       成长过程中最喜欢的菜肴：
       我母亲的金枪鱼三明治配无籽黑麦面包。这是我最喜欢的三明治。


       你最近吃饭的地方是？
       Napa Rose餐厅。Andrew Sutton是一个烹饪天才。我们点了扇贝、油甘鱼、猪肉、鸭肉、海鲤、奶酪、葡萄酒和甜点。非常美味！


       你曾吃过的最奇怪的东西：
       蝉。在中东，每17年那里的人民就要遭受这样一次大的蝉感染。这些大翅膀的蝗虫行动缓慢地在树上爬着。你可以将它们调味，倒上烤肉调味酱烤着吃。它们很容 易咬碎，并不难吃。通过这样一次尝试，我终于知道了为什么其它文化背景的人会吃虫子。不过我再也不会尝试第二次了。


       你正在做早餐。你将要做什么美味呢？
       布丁牛排配橙县烘焙奶油蛋卷面包、咸肉、土豆煎饼、新鲜水果、橙汁、法式滤压壶咖啡。


       最喜欢去吃饭的地方（除了你自己的餐厅）？
       Girl and the Goat餐厅（芝加哥）、The Bazaar餐厅（洛杉矶）、Wayfare Tavern餐厅（旧金山）、Frontera Grill餐厅（芝加哥）和The Publican餐厅（芝加哥）。


       我旅游时会制定详细的计划。我会在所有最酷的地方提前几个月做好预订。我不喜欢在餐厅吃全餐。我喜欢体验餐厅的装饰和服务风格，所以当我外出时我想要看到 尽可能多的东西。因此，我会在某些地方预订下午4:30或5点或happy hour（酒吧间术语，通常指一小时或更长的优待顾客时间。）呆上1到1.5小时。我会画一个地图，这样我就能朝同一方向行进。


       你们的展示厨房非常漂亮。在运营这样一个大型开放空间时有任何支持或反对声音吗？
       在展示厨房烹饪获得了所有人的赞成。这会促使我们更加注重整洁，有条理地以专业态度工作。所有人的眼睛都盯着厨房；人们喜欢观看菜肴制作的过程。


       最不可思议的顾客要求（你按照他的要求做了吗？）：
       我们有一位顾客要求提前预定一顿全素的菜肴，并着重强调他们不能吃任何的动物制品。我们制作了一个五道菜全素的菜单。轮到吃甜点的时候，顾客要求吃巧克力 蛋奶酥。我告诉他们蛋奶酥里有鸡蛋和黄油。他们回答我说：“哦，我们不在乎。我们就想吃蛋奶酥。”当然，我为他们做了蛋奶酥，但是我非常不情愿。


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On The Line: Tom Hope Of The Catch, Part One

Jul. 23 2013 

Tom Hope is a man with an agenda. His kitchen experiences have placed him in locations most of us want to spend a vacation, not work. This world view has shaped his approach in the kitchen, from the importance of sourcing ingredients to the value of proper cooking technique. These are only a couple of the responsibilities he carries as culinary director of The Catch in Anaheim. 

Explain what it means to be a culinary director. How do you exercise quality control?
As culinary director, I am in charge of all things related to kitchen operations. I wear many hats during the course of a day, but that is what makes my job so exciting.
Quality control starts with your vendors, purchasing the best quality, then receiving goods properly when they hit the back door. The next phase of quality control has to do with mis en place, which refers to preparation. Following recipes with meticulous perfection and portioning correctly. We do a line check each shift to ensure all ingredients are perfect. And finally, we have a number of checks and balances during service to ensure that all food leaving the kitchen is presented to our set standards.

I work with Joe Manzella and our talented chefs on all aspects of R&D to create new menus and specials.

Favorite chef.
Gordon Ramsey. I love his personality on TV, his attention to detail, rigid standards, incredible technique and overall control of a kitchen crew.

What is your beverage of choice, and where do you get it?
Moscow mule at my house. I don't get out much.

How would you explain the differences between The Catch and your sister restaurants, TAPS?
The main difference is that TAPS is a brewery where we brew our own beer, and The Catch has 20 craft beers on tap. Both restaurants sell fish and steaks. The Catch has some tableside cooking and prime steaks, TAPS has an oyster bar and charcuterie.

Best culinary tip for the home cook:
Focus on technique. Most things will taste best if done with proper technique.

Most undervalued ingredient.
Grape seed oil. I used to use it more at my old job. It has a high smoking point and a very neutral flavor. If you want something that has no flavor, or you want to saute, it's very versatile. It's a little more expensive; that's why people don't use it.

What do you recommend for first-timers?
Cioppino if you are a seafood and fish lover. It's the best of both worlds. You get fresh fish, scallops, shrimp, calamari, clams and mussels all simmered in a spicy tomato broth.

Your earliest food memory:
Cooking Italian Sunday dinner with my grandmother and mother. We would make sausage, raviolis, pasta, tomato sauce and all kinds of traditional Italian cuisine.

Could you tell us what constitutes a great pasta sauce?
A great pasta sauce starts with the freshest ingredients: great Italian plum tomatoes, Italian red wine, garden fresh herbs and solid technique.

Culinarily speaking, Orange County has the best:
Food trucks around. Every year, there's a food truck event in Corona, and it's usually like 40-50 trucks there. I like the randomness and the ability to get really nice food instantly off a truck. I just went to a graduation party where they had the Korean/taco truck (but it wasn't Kogi). I've also watched Food Truck Wars on TV. I'm also a lover of the New York street carts. I'm a sucker for the generic food trucks at construction sites.

At the National Restaurant Show, I sat in on a forum on food trucks. We were thinking of doing one ourselves for TAPS or Catch. We thought it would be great for catering and to get our brand out there. Ludo Lefebvre was there discussing his food truck, along with other chefs. They talked about how hard it is to run. After listening to them, I thought, screw it. It's not worth the investment. We just don't have enough people.

Tell us about working with Roy Yamaguchi.
Working in Hawaii with Roy was a great stepping stone in my career. I learned about fusion cuisine, ocean to restaurant seafood, farm to table produce and cultural diversity. What a great melting pot of phenomenal ingredients and cultures to have at your fingertips to create incredible food.

One food you can't live without.
Pizza. It is so diverse and has so many different varieties.

Your best recent food find:
Tony's Little Italy (deep dish, Chicago-style pizza). Closest to Chicago-style pizza that I have found in So Cal. I've probably been there, like, 80 times. And they finally, FINALLY know my name. I talk to them every time I go in. There is no place like it. That pizza is so much better there than when you take it home.

You know the secret for taking it home? Tell them, "Don't cut it." Ask them for the whole pie. Put it in the oven for 15 minutes at 350-degrees, slide it right on the rack. And then take it out and cut it. It will taste like it just came out of the oven. I like Tony's Special. It's the sausage, mushroom, pepper and green onion.

Is there a dish that you'd like to learn how to make?
I would like to learn how to make charcuterie.

Favorite meal growing up:
My mom's tuna melt sandwiches on seeded rye bread. It was my go-to sandwich growing up.

Where was your most recent meal?
Napa Rose. What didn't I have? Andrew Sutton is a culinary stud. We had scallops, hamachi, pork, duck, sea bream, cheese, wine and dessert. It was AWESOME.

Strangest thing you've ever eaten:
Cicadas. In the Midwest, every 17 years they have this big cicada infestation. These big-winged locusts are slow-moving, crawling up in the trees. You can season them, grill them, pour some barbecue sauce and eat them. They're crunchy and not bad. I can see why other cultures eat bugs. I'm not running back to do it again.

You're making breakfast. What are you having?
Toad in the hole with OC Baking brioche pan loaf, bacon, hash browns, fresh fruit, orange juice, French press coffee.

Favorite places to eat (besides your own).
Girl and the Goat (Chicago), The Bazaar (Los Angeles), Wayfare Tavern (San Francisco), Frontera Grill (Chicago) and The Publican (Chicago).

I have a system when I travel. I'll make reservations months out at all the coolest places. I don't like to do full meals at restaurants. I like to experience the decor, the service style, so I want to see as much as I can while I'm out there. So I'll make 4:30 or 5 p.m. or happy hour reservations somewhere and stay for an hour and-a-half. I set up the map so I'm going in the same direction.

The exhibition kitchen is gorgeous. Are there any pros or cons to operating such a large, open space?
Cooking in an exhibition kitchen is all pros. It forces you to work clean, organized and in a professional manner. All eyes are on the kitchen; people love to watch as meals are prepared.

Weirdest customer request (and did you do it?):
We had a guest ask for a full vegan menu in advance, and said emphatically that they could not eat ANY animal products. We did a killer five-course, full vegan menu. When it was time for the dessert course, the guest asked for a chocolate souffle. I told them there was egg and butter in the souffle. They said, "Oh, we don't care. We just really want a souffle." Of course, I did it for them. But not happily.


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