肯代尔大学举办活动——诠释现代墨西哥美食
2013年9月17日 作者Julia Thiel
2013年9月17日 作者Julia Thiel
厨师Rick Bayless在展示后回答问题
墨西哥美食新面孔——被视为四大名厨厨艺“对峙”的活动，于上周六在肯代尔大学举行，由Frontera Grill主持，主题：什么是现代墨西哥菜肴。此次活动并不能完全准确地回答这个问题，但是芝加哥厨师Rick Bayless（Frontera餐厅）、Carlos Gaytan（Mexique餐厅）、纽约厨师Alex Stupak（Empellon餐厅）和墨西哥城厨师Jorge Vallejo（Quintonil餐厅）都诠释了他们各自对墨西哥烹饪的理解。我本来期望所有厨师都能畅所欲言地讨论一番，但是他们却仅仅轮流简单讲了一下自己的餐厅以及他们在制作墨西哥菜肴之前是如何看待墨西哥美食的。尽管该活动并不是“对峙”所暗含的那种激烈又冗长的比拼，但是每一位厨师对于如何定义墨西哥烹饪都持有自己不同的看法。
Bayless，煎茄子配豆豉辣调味汁、平菇和干酪
Peter Sagal（智力问答节目《Wait Wait, Don't Tell Me!》主持人）将Rick Bayless介绍成一个“来自俄克拉荷马州的白人”，曾被墨西哥政府授予阿兹特克雄鹰勋章（Order of the Aztec Eagle）。Bayless表示，当他于26年前开设Frontera餐厅时，芝加哥的大多数人几乎都不了解真正的墨西哥美食是什么；如果他们看到菜单上有mole(鼹鼠)这个单词，他们会问菜里面是不是真的有鼹鼠。而如今，人们进了餐厅，都会问为什么所有的7种瓦哈卡州酱不在菜单上。Bayless的餐厅一直都非常重视当地原料，并一再强调芝加哥并不位于墨西哥。那么这样的话又如何制作墨西哥菜肴呢？Bayless表示，他在餐厅的目标是创作“用当地原料表达的传统墨西哥口味。”
Peter Sagal（智力问答节目《Wait Wait, Don't Tell Me!》主持人）将Rick Bayless介绍成一个“来自俄克拉荷马州的白人”，曾被墨西哥政府授予阿兹特克雄鹰勋章（Order of the Aztec Eagle）。Bayless表示，当他于26年前开设Frontera餐厅时，芝加哥的大多数人几乎都不了解真正的墨西哥美食是什么；如果他们看到菜单上有mole(鼹鼠)这个单词，他们会问菜里面是不是真的有鼹鼠。而如今，人们进了餐厅，都会问为什么所有的7种瓦哈卡州酱不在菜单上。Bayless的餐厅一直都非常重视当地原料，并一再强调芝加哥并不位于墨西哥。那么这样的话又如何制作墨西哥菜肴呢？Bayless表示，他在餐厅的目标是创作“用当地原料表达的传统墨西哥口味。”
Alex Stupak，天麸罗糊、半熟的苏格兰煮蛋配西班牙辣香肠
Bayless展示完后出场的是另一位白人厨师Alex Stupak，他多年来一直是西点大厨，曾担任Alinea餐厅的西点大厨，之后决定在纽约市开设taqueria餐厅之前却去了wd-50餐厅，这很明显有点突然。（他表示：“因为墨西哥美食实在是太美味了。”）Stupak承认一个西点大厨去烹饪墨西哥美食确实让很多人很失望，但是这却没有使他感到困扰，“我喜欢挑衅。”他也喜欢不断超越墨西哥烹饪的极限，他还谈到了制作XO酱（传统意义上讲是中式的），完全使用墨西哥原料制作。他说，制作出来的结果并不是墨西哥式美食。尽管是用西班牙辣香肠而非香肠制作苏格兰蛋，那又如何呢？据Stupak而言，这道菜仍然是墨西哥菜肴。（他并没有详细说明为什么。）
Bayless展示完后出场的是另一位白人厨师Alex Stupak，他多年来一直是西点大厨，曾担任Alinea餐厅的西点大厨，之后决定在纽约市开设taqueria餐厅之前却去了wd-50餐厅，这很明显有点突然。（他表示：“因为墨西哥美食实在是太美味了。”）Stupak承认一个西点大厨去烹饪墨西哥美食确实让很多人很失望，但是这却没有使他感到困扰，“我喜欢挑衅。”他也喜欢不断超越墨西哥烹饪的极限，他还谈到了制作XO酱（传统意义上讲是中式的），完全使用墨西哥原料制作。他说，制作出来的结果并不是墨西哥式美食。尽管是用西班牙辣香肠而非香肠制作苏格兰蛋，那又如何呢？据Stupak而言，这道菜仍然是墨西哥菜肴。（他并没有详细说明为什么。）
Jorge Vallejo，熏蟹玉米饼
Jorge Vallejo就墨西哥烹饪说的并不多，很可能是因为他的英语水平有限。但是在Quintonil餐厅，他采用了一种相对传统的方法制作菜肴，提到“我们不会白费力气做重复工作”。Carlos Gaytan在墨西哥格雷罗州（Guerrero）的一个小镇长大，受到了其母亲烹饪的影响（没有你想象的那样传统）。他的父亲狩猎野味，母亲从田里收获食物，Gaytan说那时他们家非常穷，他们家有什么食物他的母亲就只能做什么。Gaytan说道，他的朋友会过来吃饭，然后抱怨说做的食物不是传统墨西哥美食，但是他们仍然会再次过来用餐（有时他们甚至都没有接到邀请却仍然过来了）。通常的情况是，他们带着容器过来，然后把剩菜带走。在Mexique餐厅，Gaytan将墨西哥菜肴和法式菜肴相结合，使用很多奶油、黄油和香料。
Jorge Vallejo就墨西哥烹饪说的并不多，很可能是因为他的英语水平有限。但是在Quintonil餐厅，他采用了一种相对传统的方法制作菜肴，提到“我们不会白费力气做重复工作”。Carlos Gaytan在墨西哥格雷罗州（Guerrero）的一个小镇长大，受到了其母亲烹饪的影响（没有你想象的那样传统）。他的父亲狩猎野味，母亲从田里收获食物，Gaytan说那时他们家非常穷，他们家有什么食物他的母亲就只能做什么。Gaytan说道，他的朋友会过来吃饭，然后抱怨说做的食物不是传统墨西哥美食，但是他们仍然会再次过来用餐（有时他们甚至都没有接到邀请却仍然过来了）。通常的情况是，他们带着容器过来，然后把剩菜带走。在Mexique餐厅，Gaytan将墨西哥菜肴和法式菜肴相结合，使用很多奶油、黄油和香料。
Carlos Gaytan，羊肚配腌渍洋葱和欧芹酱
当厨师完成了各自的展示后，Wahaka Distillery的代表谈到了梅斯卡尔酒，并展示了如何换种方法制作经典死而复生鸡尾酒（Corpse Reviver），随后，观众前往另一个房间品尝厨师展示的菜肴，以及死而复生鸡尾酒和墨西哥美酒。（我没有品尝后者，但是前者真的非常棒，而且还很容易制作。）
Corpse Reviver
死而复生鸡尾酒
1 oz mescal 1盎司梅斯卡尔酒
1 oz Cocchi Americano 1盎司Cocchi Americano
1 oz Gran Torres orange liqueur 1盎司橙味利口酒
1 oz lime juice 1盎司酸橙汁
Pernod, in a spray bottle 装在喷雾瓶中的法国绿茴香酒
Cucumber slice 黄瓜薄片
将除了绿茴香酒以外的所有原料混合并放入冰块摇晃，将绿茴香酒喷洒在一个马提尼酒杯中，再将黄瓜片放入玻璃杯中，倒入混合物，最后滤去冰块就大功告成了。
美国肯代尔大学
中文网站：http://www.gheac.com/edu/kendall/
咨询电话：010-8447 6928
189 01193 685
咨询QQ：800093391
电子邮件：info@gheac.com
办公地址：北京市 东城区 东直门外大街48号 东方银座A座19F
Modern Mexican food: What is it, anyway?
Posted by Julia Thiel on 09.17.13 at 04:15 PM
• Rick Bayless answers questions after his presentation
The New Face of Mexican Food—billed as a "face-off" among four prominent chefs, hosted by Frontera Grill at Kendall College last Saturday—took on the question of what modern Mexican cuisine is. While it didn't promise to answer that question, it did say that Chicago chefs Rick Bayless (Frontera, etc) and Carlos Gaytan (Mexique), New York's Alex Stupak (Empellon), and Mexico City's Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil) would defend their respective visions of Mexican cooking. I expected a discussion among all the chefs, but instead they took turns talking briefly about their restaurants and how they saw Mexican food before demonstrating a dish (or a few). But though the program wasn't the knock-down, drag-out fight suggested by words like "face-off," each chef had a slightly different idea of what defined Mexican cooking.
• Bayless's fried eggplant with huitlacoche, black bean sauce salsa negra, oyster mushrooms, and queso añejo
Peter Sagal (of Wait Wait, Don't Tell Me!) hosted, introducing Rick Bayless as a "white guy from Oklahoma" whom the Mexican government had named to the Order of the Aztec Eagle (for real). When he opened Frontera 26 years ago, Bayless said, most people in Chicago had no idea what real Mexican food was; they'd see mole on the menu and ask if it really had moles in it. Today, people come in and ask why all seven Oaxacan moles aren't on the menu. Bayless's restaurants have been emphasizing local ingredients since before it became trendy—and, just to state the blatantly obvious, Chicago isn't located in Mexico. How can that be Mexican cuisine? His goal at his restaurants, Bayless said, is to create "traditional Mexican flavors expressed with local ingredients."
• Alex Stupak's tempura-battered, soft-boiled Scotch egg with chorizo
Bayless was followed by another white guy, Alex Stupak, who was a pastry chef for years—he was Alinea's opening pastry chef, then moved to wd-50—before deciding, apparently out of the blue, to open a taqueria in New York City. ("Because Mexican food is awesome," he said.) Stupak acknowledged that a pastry chef cooking Mexican food upset a lot of people, which didn't seem to bother him at all—"I like to provoke." He also likes to push the limits of Mexican cooking, and talked about making XO sauce, which is traditionally Chinese, with entirely Mexican ingredients. The result, he said, was not Mexican. A Scotch egg made with chorizo instead of sausage, though? That's Mexican, according to Stupak. (He didn't elaborate on why.)
• Jorge Vallejo's smoked crab tostada
Jorge Vallejo had less to say about Mexican cooking, probably because his English was limited. But at Quintonil he takes a fairly traditional approach to his cuisine, and mentioned that "we're not trying to reinvent the wheel." Carlos Gaytan, who grew up in a small town in Guerrero, Mexico, was influenced by his mother's cooking—which was less traditional than you might expect. His father hunted game and his mother gathered food from the fields—they were very poor, Gaytan said—and his mother would come up with dishes based on what they had. Gaytan said that his friends would come over to eat and complain that the food wasn't traditional Mexican, but they kept coming back—even sometimes when they hadn't been invited. Often, they'd show up with containers to take leftovers home with them. At Mexique, Gaytan combines Mexican and French cuisines, which he said means that he uses a lot of cream, a lot of butter, and a lot of spices.
• Carlos Gaytan's lamb belly huarache with pickled onions and salsa verde
After the chefs finished their presentations, representatives from Wahaka Distillery talked about mezcal and demonstrated how to make a variation on the classic Corpse Reviver (recipe below), then the audience moved to another room to taste the food that the chefs had demonstrated how to make, along with the Corpse Reviver and wines of Mexico (I didn't try the latter, but the former was excellent, and is very simple to make).
Corpse Reviver
1 oz mezcal
1 oz Cocchi Americano
1 oz Gran Torres orange liqueur
1 oz lime juice
Pernod, in a spray bottle
Cucumber slice
Shake all ingredients except Pernod with ice, spray Pernod into a martini glass, place cucumber in the glass, and pour in the drink, straining out the ice.
【原文引自】：http://www.gheac.com/thread-4022-1-1.html
版权与翻译版权所有，转载，复制请注明出自于“GHEAC-环球酒店教育与行业盟”。
当厨师完成了各自的展示后，Wahaka Distillery的代表谈到了梅斯卡尔酒，并展示了如何换种方法制作经典死而复生鸡尾酒（Corpse Reviver），随后，观众前往另一个房间品尝厨师展示的菜肴，以及死而复生鸡尾酒和墨西哥美酒。（我没有品尝后者，但是前者真的非常棒，而且还很容易制作。）
Corpse Reviver
死而复生鸡尾酒
1 oz mescal 1盎司梅斯卡尔酒
1 oz Cocchi Americano 1盎司Cocchi Americano
1 oz Gran Torres orange liqueur 1盎司橙味利口酒
1 oz lime juice 1盎司酸橙汁
Pernod, in a spray bottle 装在喷雾瓶中的法国绿茴香酒
Cucumber slice 黄瓜薄片
将除了绿茴香酒以外的所有原料混合并放入冰块摇晃，将绿茴香酒喷洒在一个马提尼酒杯中，再将黄瓜片放入玻璃杯中，倒入混合物，最后滤去冰块就大功告成了。
美国肯代尔大学
中文网站：http://www.gheac.com/edu/kendall/
咨询电话：010-8447 6928
189 01193 685
咨询QQ：800093391
电子邮件：info@gheac.com
办公地址：北京市 东城区 东直门外大街48号 东方银座A座19F
Modern Mexican food: What is it, anyway?
Posted by Julia Thiel on 09.17.13 at 04:15 PM
• Rick Bayless answers questions after his presentation
The New Face of Mexican Food—billed as a "face-off" among four prominent chefs, hosted by Frontera Grill at Kendall College last Saturday—took on the question of what modern Mexican cuisine is. While it didn't promise to answer that question, it did say that Chicago chefs Rick Bayless (Frontera, etc) and Carlos Gaytan (Mexique), New York's Alex Stupak (Empellon), and Mexico City's Jorge Vallejo (Quintonil) would defend their respective visions of Mexican cooking. I expected a discussion among all the chefs, but instead they took turns talking briefly about their restaurants and how they saw Mexican food before demonstrating a dish (or a few). But though the program wasn't the knock-down, drag-out fight suggested by words like "face-off," each chef had a slightly different idea of what defined Mexican cooking.
• Bayless's fried eggplant with huitlacoche, black bean sauce salsa negra, oyster mushrooms, and queso añejo
Peter Sagal (of Wait Wait, Don't Tell Me!) hosted, introducing Rick Bayless as a "white guy from Oklahoma" whom the Mexican government had named to the Order of the Aztec Eagle (for real). When he opened Frontera 26 years ago, Bayless said, most people in Chicago had no idea what real Mexican food was; they'd see mole on the menu and ask if it really had moles in it. Today, people come in and ask why all seven Oaxacan moles aren't on the menu. Bayless's restaurants have been emphasizing local ingredients since before it became trendy—and, just to state the blatantly obvious, Chicago isn't located in Mexico. How can that be Mexican cuisine? His goal at his restaurants, Bayless said, is to create "traditional Mexican flavors expressed with local ingredients."
• Alex Stupak's tempura-battered, soft-boiled Scotch egg with chorizo
Bayless was followed by another white guy, Alex Stupak, who was a pastry chef for years—he was Alinea's opening pastry chef, then moved to wd-50—before deciding, apparently out of the blue, to open a taqueria in New York City. ("Because Mexican food is awesome," he said.) Stupak acknowledged that a pastry chef cooking Mexican food upset a lot of people, which didn't seem to bother him at all—"I like to provoke." He also likes to push the limits of Mexican cooking, and talked about making XO sauce, which is traditionally Chinese, with entirely Mexican ingredients. The result, he said, was not Mexican. A Scotch egg made with chorizo instead of sausage, though? That's Mexican, according to Stupak. (He didn't elaborate on why.)
• Jorge Vallejo's smoked crab tostada
Jorge Vallejo had less to say about Mexican cooking, probably because his English was limited. But at Quintonil he takes a fairly traditional approach to his cuisine, and mentioned that "we're not trying to reinvent the wheel." Carlos Gaytan, who grew up in a small town in Guerrero, Mexico, was influenced by his mother's cooking—which was less traditional than you might expect. His father hunted game and his mother gathered food from the fields—they were very poor, Gaytan said—and his mother would come up with dishes based on what they had. Gaytan said that his friends would come over to eat and complain that the food wasn't traditional Mexican, but they kept coming back—even sometimes when they hadn't been invited. Often, they'd show up with containers to take leftovers home with them. At Mexique, Gaytan combines Mexican and French cuisines, which he said means that he uses a lot of cream, a lot of butter, and a lot of spices.
• Carlos Gaytan's lamb belly huarache with pickled onions and salsa verde
After the chefs finished their presentations, representatives from Wahaka Distillery talked about mezcal and demonstrated how to make a variation on the classic Corpse Reviver (recipe below), then the audience moved to another room to taste the food that the chefs had demonstrated how to make, along with the Corpse Reviver and wines of Mexico (I didn't try the latter, but the former was excellent, and is very simple to make).
Corpse Reviver
1 oz mezcal
1 oz Cocchi Americano
1 oz Gran Torres orange liqueur
1 oz lime juice
Pernod, in a spray bottle
Cucumber slice
Shake all ingredients except Pernod with ice, spray Pernod into a martini glass, place cucumber in the glass, and pour in the drink, straining out the ice.
【原文引自】：http://www.gheac.com/thread-4022-1-1.html
版权与翻译版权所有，转载，复制请注明出自于“GHEAC-环球酒店教育与行业盟”。
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